Can you use Wella t18 toner with 30 volume developer? Short answer: No! I’ll tell you why

  • Wella’s T18 toner must be applied with a 20-volume developer only.
  • If you mix Wella t18 toner with a 30-volume developer, you’ll ruin your base color due to its lightening strength. By using Wella’s T18, you’re looking for neutralizing unwanted tones, not changing your hair color.
  • On top of that, you will weaken your hair by exposing it to more volumes than the toner actually needs.


before applying it on her dirty hair

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Hair cosmetics companies invest thousands of dollars in the research and innovation of hair care products. It’s a good thing they do!


Due to that, we stylists have tools that ease our jobs. Of course, as I always say,  the hand that handles the tools must know how to do it. .

I’ll go one step further and tell you that colorimetry is an art. Picasso used brushes and oils to create his masterpieces with different textures and depths.

What do we stylists use?


We use hair dyes, toner, and, of course, brushes. They’re somewhat different from Picasso’s, but brushes nonetheless.

Toner is the salvation of any coloring job. However, you must use it correctly, especially if you’ll use your own hands and under your own responsibility.

Wella’s toner products are no exception. Tell me the truth; have you read the manufacturer’s instructions for use?



It clearly states that  Wella Color Charm T18 Toner should only be used with 20-volume developer. 

So why do you want to go against the flow? Isn’t the word of the person who created the product enough? Aren’t the lab’s hours of study, trial, and error before launching T18 worth nothing to you?


Swimming against the flow can be dangerous. In the case of toner, using a 30-volume developer is swimming against the flow. If you do, you’ll never make it to shore. Do you want to know why?


Then read on because I’m going to tell you:

  • Why Wella’s T18 is only applied with a 20-volume developer.
  • How to apply Wella Color Charm T18 correctly

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Why is Wella T18 only applied with a 20-volume developer?

toner, developer, bowl and brush

To make it crystal clear, Wella Color Charm T18 has to be applied with a 20-volume developer. In fact, all toners are applied with a 20-volume developer. Do you know why?


It’s because the toner is designed to be used after bleaching. It’s when the cuticles of your hair fiber are open and receptive to the pigments. Also, the toner neutralizes unwanted tones that appear after bleaching.

A 20-volume developer is used because you don’t need to lighten your hair. Instead, you just tone some unwanted tones.


 If you mix Wella’s T18 with a 30-volume developer, all you’ll achieve is to lighten your hair up to three tones.  That alone will be one of the nicest things that’ll happen. Don’t you believe me?


Check out what happened to one of my clients.

Giselle had been applying a 4.1 ash brown to her hair for many years until she saw a 6.1 dark ash blonde on Instagram that made her immediately fall in love with. When she told me about it, it seemed like a fitting change.

Of course, we stuck to a progressive bleaching plan to avoid both damaging her hair and unwanted orange tones. The day finally arrived when we would have her last bleaching session and start applying the hair color she wanted so badly.


Then, she walked into the salon and what I saw was shocking: her roots were carrot orange and the rest of her hair was rusty orange. What had happened to the Giselle I’d seen three weeks before? What had happened to her hair?


Giselle had swum against the flow and had shipwrecked. A friend of a friend of hers had told her that someone else had used Wella Color Charm T18 with a 30-volume developer to get an ashy color.

What was the result?


 Wella T18 mixed with a 30-volume developer lightened her hair leaving an uneven, coppery tone, but no ash blonde at all. .

Goodbye, Giselle, goodbye bleaching plan, goodbye ash blonde, goodbye hair health!


It happened after using the toner with a stronger developer. Also, due to using it inappropriately. It’s always better to apply the toner after bleaching the hair.

Again, Wella’s T18 toner is always applied with a 20-volume developer to avoid lightening or modifying the base color.


I could solve Giselle’s problem immediately. However, she spent more money, and her hair fiber needed some serious hydration sessions. There’s something else you need to keep in mind, and I’ll tell you about it below.


How to apply Wella Color Charm T18 the right way

from yellow to ashy

Although applying Wella toner is simple, I’ll give you a tip: take your time and proceed with patience and caution. You have to control the exposure of the product on your hair almost minute by minute.

This way, you’ll avoid an over pigmentation in the hair and a very different color from the one you are looking for.



  • Wella Color Charm T18
  • 20-volume developer
  • Hair dye brush
  • Gloves
  • Hair clips
  • Clock or timer
  • Comb


Step by step:

  • Detangle your hair and separate it into 4 sections: 2 front and 2 back, holding each section with hair clips.
  • Prepare the Wella Color Charm mixture according to the manufacturer’s directions.  Use gloves throughout the process.
  • Apply Wella Color Charm all over your hair starting with the back sections, from roots to ends, and leave it on for up to 20 minutes


As soon as you've finished applying the toner, take your watch.

 Don’t forget that you should monitor your hair's reaction minute by minute because it’ll start to change color right away .


  • Once the exposure time of the toner has passed, or your hair has reached the color you want, rinse the Wella Color Charm T18 out. You can use your regular shampoo and conditioner to remove any excess toner.


Wella Color Charm lasts approximately 3 to 4 weeks. So, then, you’ll need to reapply it. What developer will you use?

I see you've been paying attention. Cheers to you! You’ll use 20-volume developer.



Wella Color Charm Toner 18 has to be only mixed with the 20-volume developer. It’s the only way you’ll be able to neutralize unwanted tones without changing the base color or damaging your hair.

Don't experiment with your hair because laboratory tests and the occasional disaster documented on social media are enough experience.

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